Values & guides
Before you shop a reference number, figure out which era actually fits the man you're buying for.
You've decided to give him a real watch. Good. The harder question isn't which brand — it's which era, because a vintage piece and a modern one ask very different things of the person wearing them.
Start with how he lives. Does he garden, travel rough, forget to take a watch off in the shower? Then modern is the kinder gift. Current production runs bigger, brighter, and more water-resistant, with service parts that are easy to source and a movement built to shrug off a busy week. He can wear it and not think about it. For a daily piece — the one that becomes his — that matters more than any romance about the past.
Now picture a different man. He notices patina on a leather bag and likes that his car has a few miles on it. He reads the little stories behind objects. For him, a vintage watch is the better gift: a faded dial, a case softened by decades, a reference that was discontinued before he could afford it. It carries a mood modern steel can't fake. The trade-off is honest care — gentler wrist time, a watchmaker on call, and patience when a part takes a while to find.
A quick way to decide: is this his first serious watch, or his fifth? First-timers are usually happier with something modern and forgiving. The collector who already owns a few often wants the character and the hunt that only an older piece gives.
Whichever way you lean, buy the condition, not just the name. Every watch we sell is authenticated in-house, gone over by our watchmakers, and backed by our own store warranty — so a vintage gift arrives sorted, not as a project you've quietly handed him.
Pick the era that matches the man. The reference will follow from there, and he'll know you were paying attention.